Once surfing gets you hooked… the pursuit of finding the perfect wave becomes a life-long journey of love.
With swell forecasts and the locals at each and every beach predicting and talking about the swell on the horizon, it is an endless pull of anticipation. The famous surf breaks are generally always crowded with surfers of all abilities and on all sorts of equipment.
After years of surfing I generally tend to look for empty and uncrowded waves. The waves don’t need to be as good, for me it's all about the meditative space and the all consuming beautiful environment that is the sea. Perfect waves with no people is an extremely rare commodity.
For me, this recent session was testament to the fact that magical things can simply happen! Perfect, extremely long peeling waves with only 1 or 2 people surfing them graced the coast of one of the world's most densely populated surf cities and I had the chance to join them for at least an hour or two. In a crazy mixed up world you can always grab a board of any shape or size and leave the land behind!
- Beau Young -